Llego la hora... Cama✔️ Plato✔️ Correa✔️

The time has come... Bed✔️ Plate✔️ Leash✔️

Ok it’s time! The moment has arrived to prepare the environment to welcome the new love of your life... and we need to make sure it's as beneficial as possible.

When we talk about a puppy, we need to realize they have a brand-new brain, and everything they do or feel will be for the first time. So, our mission here is to create the path we want them to follow. By generating positive stimuli for those actions or behaviors we want to be repeated, and avoiding those we don't want to develop, or at least being on the lookout to act in a way that when the dog performs one of these actions, they don’t repeat it.

The first thing we need to clearly define is their space, this area where the puppy is safe from dangers, has comfort, and has access to their water and food resources. A designated area for them, where they can find their bed/carrier or even a chicken nest if you prefer, but where they are safe from all harm. This area will serve as a lesson for those moments when the dog needs to stay isolated, or simply as an excellent way to learn to manage emotions.

As we mentioned in the previous article "before bringing a puppy home"; these little animals are empty of information, something we have compared to babies, and one of the characteristics that concerns us the most is that both take everything to their mouths, although being a dog it makes more sense because this is their main tool. This brings us to the point that you shouldn't leave small objects within their reach, anything that can be devoured by this uncontrollable beast. And it doesn't just have to be small things; if you want to improve in this regard, you can even, as much as possible, eliminate any chewable objects.

From the moment this little animal of God crosses our door, we are 150% responsible for keeping those four paws walking with physical and mental health for the rest of their life. But especially in their first months, we must help them accept this transition in the best possible way, which is not only super strange for them since everything is new, but they are also facing a new reality without their technical support team (their family).

Now, as good adoptive parents, we will have prepared in advance that comfy, well-padded bed, which we'll place in a low-traffic area to not interrupt their relaxation moments. The real objective of having the "den" protected is because IT'S THEIR COMFORT ZONE, which will make the dog go there directly when they need peace, just like you do with your couch when you get home from work. You'll know you did it right when you see them confidently, with a spring in their step, heading to their refuge with that "snack" or treat you gave them for behaving well.



Remember, it’s a puppy, and no matter if the bed is from the dollar store or designer, just for fun or out of boredom, they will tend to chew on it. This is a battle you can’t fight at the moment, but you can redirect their attention and give them something they can chew on. 😉 (Always keep a toy nearby.)

Speaking of chewing... FOOD! It's essential to provide our little one with a diet that meets their puppy needs during their first months of life. At this stage, their body is in full development and growth, so they need a diet rich in nutrients and vitamins to stay healthy and strong.

And let me emphasize, when it comes to dog food, if you make the effort to provide quality, IT SHOWS! And not just in their coat, which will be shinier and silkier, but quality food impacts everything from dental health to maintaining a balanced body weight, and of course digestion, as well as the energy and vitality provided by the nutrients. It's an excellent and necessary combination for such a critical stage like puppyhood that will completely define their future development. Imagine a kid eating fast food every day – you wouldn't turn out well, would you?

It's true we have many and very different options: dry kibble, wet food, semi-moist, homemade, food for dogs with dietary needs, organic, and natural food... like I said, MANY. And to choose well, it’s not about breaking the bank but about knowing WHAT YOUR DOG NEEDS. Make sure it’s specifically for puppies, as these are made with their particular conditions and needs in mind, both digestive and dental. For example, those future sharp fangs that are currently just baby teeth, and these foods are also a good source of calcium necessary for your little devil to grow strong.


Remember that as a rule (it doesn't mean it will be your case) these little demons eat and drink like there’s no tomorrow. You should start thinking about a water bowl. Personally, I prefer one larger than the food bowl (depending on the size of the dog), but make sure fresh water is always available. And if you want to stay ahead of the way some of these little angels eat, as if the food is going to vanish, I suggest using a bowl with built-in engineering that has shapes like small mazes inside, so the dog has to search for the food or lick to get it. This translates to a more normal eating pace, which greatly aids digestion.

And as we know, after eating comes the time to evacuate.

With puppies, it's great because there's like a clock that will ring between 10 and 20 minutes after eating, and we need to be ready because the little prince or princess is thinking about releasing last night’s dinner. So, I recommend having a PUPPY PAD on hand. Don’t forget it on your shopping list; you can find them anywhere, even at Mercadona. They are super useful, very easy to use, and it’s like nothing happened.

You also can't miss in their drawer of belongings...that TOY they find addictive, the one they see and run to, not because they want it, but because they need it! This will be your future tool to teach them those movements you’re so excited about! We need to try and see what excites them the most. A ball never fails; it’s something that naturally attracts them because it rolls and simulates something escaping. But every dog has their preferences, so why not a chew toy, a rope, a rag, a squeaky chicken...etc. The KONG is more of a tool than a toy, which I always recommend because sooner or later it will be great for working on certain behaviors with your dog.

As a trainer, I’ve seen all kinds of toys, and I’d like to make it clear that there is a difference between a random toy and one with a reputable brand. It shows in the quality, which gives us much more playtime. A good toy minimizes the risk of parts breaking off and being ingested by our pet, which is another aspect where quality shows since we don’t have to worry about toxicity. In short, yes, there is a difference. It doesn’t mean you can’t buy one from a dollar store, but if you already need to pay attention when they play, with these, you should be even more careful.

Don’t forget THE LEASH. For a puppy, it doesn’t need to be anything special, just comfortable and lightweight for their outings. FLEXI leashes (the retractable ones) are a good tool if you understand their proper use. You’ve probably seen many times someone walking, biking, or running having to jump over a leash because the handler isn’t paying attention. The useful thing about these leashes is that they are adaptable, and walks have their moments of “we are focused” and “go sniff, all the flowers are yours.”

On the other hand, A GOOD, NICE, AND SAFE COLLAR OR HARNESS. This can be a bit controversial because there’s always someone who opposes collars because they’ve heard they can harm the dog if they tend to pull. The point here is that your dog shouldn’t be pulling on it.

Those who oppose harnesses claim they make the dog feel like they’re in sled mode, pulling even harder than a bull, and that they cause supposed skin chafing, which they argue is harmful to the fur. Honestly, this argument seems unnecessary to discuss since I don’t think any dog lives with a harness on 24/7, or at least it’s not sensible. If we think about it, in both situations, the same concept applies: a well-trained dog shouldn’t pull with a collar or a harness.

For those who will be taking their dog in the car, I recommend a nice HARNESS and an ADAPTER (mainly because it’s mandatory) to connect it to the SEATBELT. In case of any sudden movement or jolt in the car, it won’t be their neck absorbing the impact but the harness. Of course, we must ensure the adjustment distance of this harness to avoid any risk of impact with other parts of the car. Don’t leave it loose like the dog in the photo – that won’t do.


Back to the comfort of home, we need to find the perfect occasion when all family members are present to discuss and, most importantly, make clear THE TERMS OF THE AGREEMENT TO BRING A PUPPY HOME. Let's agree this is something that rarely happens in any family. But if people realized how potentially beneficial it is, many more would do it.

First, let the family know that all of us are, to a greater or lesser extent, responsible for this new life, and our actions will affect its future behavior, whether we want to be part of its life or not. Therefore, make the following points absolutely clear:

IT'S A DOG, and it does dog things like biting, barking, running, jumping, playing, even stalking. We need to be tolerant and empathetic. At the same time, we need to teach them what’s right and what’s wrong. But above all, DO NOT PUNISH them. This is a critical and very exciting stage for the puppy. Negative emotions will have a significant impact, yielding fruits you won’t want to taste in the future. Right now, we want everything to be positive, making learning more fun and fostering new behaviors based on positive emotions, so we can choose the most appropriate ones.

Another very important point is to make the house rules clear. (The fine print of the contract). This includes, for example, getting on the couch (or the bed, or the roof, or whatever you don’t like). We are talking about the permissions granted to the future beast by different household members because it often happens that "Mom allows it, but Dad doesn’t."

This point is non-negotiable! We can’t expect the dog to have different protocols depending on who is present. If we agree that getting on the couch is not allowed, NO ONE will let them get on the couch. This rule applies to all norms. If they are not allowed in the kitchen, NO ONE will let them in the kitchen. If they are not allowed to jump on guests, NO ONE will allow it. And another good one: if you don’t want them sitting next to you, looking like a wet puppy, whining like a homeless soul that hasn’t eaten in seven days, and putting their paw on your knee as if begging, "please give me something, I have five kids and no job," while you are eating, NEVER feed them from the table. As militaristic as it may seem, it’s for their own good. Having to evaluate each situation depending on who is present is a source of stress throughout the day, because they will be reprimanded for doing something they were rewarded for with petting from Mom or Grandma just ten minutes earlier.

To make this concept clear, we must understand that if we don’t set limits for the dog, they will set the limits themselves. And I assure you, their limits will differ, not a little, but a lot from yours. Moreover, it’s not good for the dog to feel they have to be the one making decisions. This results in a lot of stress when it becomes their daily routine. A dog rests better and more peacefully when they know what they have to do and when, thus freeing them from unnecessary burdens.

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